If I was going to meet the new Baghdad, I'd have to put some old habits and memories to the side. My first day back I spread out a map of the city on a table in a shaded inner courtyard.

But a few held on. Today, as Baghdad looks to a brighter future, historic cafes of the old city are enticing a new generation. De Rose, in Karada district, is one of the new wave of bright ...

Baghdad, known as The City of Peace by Arabs, became Iraq's capital in the early 1920s and has a population of around five million people. The Tigris River roughly bisects the vast city ...