Meanwhile, dip a sage leaf in the batter and shake off the excess. Lay an anchovy fillet or half if they’re too long, on top and press on another sage leaf to make a little sandwich. Dip the ...

This extraordinary elixir is for me the very apogee of anchovydom; for the anchovy lover, there can be no purer celebration of its qualities. It’s a dip to be eaten with crudités, drink in hand ...