A list of goat-themed cocktails hangs on the wall of the newly opened Billy Goat Tavern in Wrigleyville on June 6, 2024. (Eileen T. Meslar/Chicago Tribune) Ana Luna was working nearby.

Though a small player in a large field, at 32 acres, Billy Goat in Montrose is the largest independent hop farm outside the Pacific Northwest, where nearly all U.S. hops are otherwise grown.