Bag-in-box is not appropriate for all wines. Unlike bottles, which are impervious to air, bag-in-box is permeable, so it’s not good for wines intended for aging more than a year or so.

Middleton is a box wine convert. After reading about how the quality of 3-liter bag-in-box wines was improving, he tried some himself — and he liked it. He just didn’t like everyone to know.